Smokey’s BBQ On The Boulevard

Smokey’s makes its home in a thicket of restaurants on “lower” Metcalf (and by lower, I mean geographically, not propertytaxically). The interior is relatively unadorned save some beer posters, hand-letter and re-lettered featured item signs, and a 12’ mural that salutes the hot rod life we all lived in the mid-50s. Cool, daddio.

But I came for the food. Poodle Skirt Peggy and I ordered our own version of a sampler – a slab of ribs (either $15.99 or $16.99 depending on where you look, which menu you order from, and whether the proprietor is in a good mood) and a 2-meat combo dinner with brisket, burnt ends (there’s that dollar upcharge again) and a side o’fries ($10.99).

Let’s dispense with perfection and near-perfection quickly. The brisket – perfection. Thinly shaven (and perhaps closer than I prefer) but moist and tender regardless the thickness and with a dandy cordovan smoke ring, the brisket would put chef on most any competition podium. The ribs were gorgeous, deeply smoked – virtually pink throughout – and shrouded in a feisty rib rub sparkling with celery seed. I’d have a very hard time arguing why these weren’t the best ribs I’ve ever had. I’m giving four piggies, but it’s four with a bullet heading straight up the AM pop chart.

The burnt ends were the topic of my conversation with the proprietor at the end of our meal. I asserted that the chunks I sampled were “not fresh”. He politely, if uncertainly, challenged me and urged me to accept that they were an early morning product of the overnight brisket smoke-off. The burnt ends were nicely smoked and perfectly seasoned, but were dark walnut inside (indicating not fresh), tight and somewhat chewy (not moist). Based on what Smokey’s does with the brisket and ribs, I’d wager they frequently have outstanding burnt ends, but not so on this cruise down the boulevard.

Fries were hand cut and crisp. I found out later that “spicy” fries are dusted with the sensational house rib rub. Definitely the way to go on future visits.

Based on my standards, I score Smokey’s BBQ as follows:

Brisket 

Ribs 

Burnt Ends 

Someone has done some amazing ciphering to determine that the 135^th Street corridor is underserved when it comes to Q. In the last couple years, three joints (1, 2, 3) have opened along Quivira near 135^th, not counting my beloved Smokehouse just a mile north of Smokey’s. I’m not going to deny my citizenship in Gladstoner heaven, but I’d happily drive past the mediocre joints on Quivira to get over to Smokey’s.

Thanks for making it interesting… you know, on the boulevard of smokin’ dreams.

site: http://www.smokeysbbq-opks.com/