Barbeque KC Restaurant Reviews

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Saturday, August 18, 2012

Hillsdale Bank B-B-Q

note: this joint is in Hillsdale KS

HBbbq is 20 min from bucolic Overland Park and smack dab between Spring Hill and Paola.  A caboose is appended to the world's tiniest old bank building.  The owners have filled the premises with quaint furnishings and decor - everything from a wooden canoe to snowshoes and fishing rods, a poor man's version of country shabby chic.

The proprietor took our order.  I wanted a selection of burn ends, beef, and sausage.  He was very congenial in suggesting the less expensive way of getting our sampler platter.  Very nice.  This is the kind of consideration you get from a place run by Mom&Pop themselves and who don't start screaming "WHAT DO YOU WANT" the minute you walk in the door.  Thanks for the peace!

Gorgeous and I shared a burnt end "sandwich" (basically a generous plateful of burnt ends with a couple slices of Wonder Bread on top) and the two meat sampler of beef and sausage.  The sausage was a ball park spicy polish dog that had been smoked.  Not really very good.  The beef was NOT brisket.  I talked to the owner/chef about it.  The slice of beef ran "along the grain" over the 6" or so of the cut.  I thought this was doomed.  However, the meat (a shoulder round) was as tender as could be with a fantastic smoke ring.  The burnt ends were nothing but pulled pork.  I was hoping for beef or rib burnt ends, but for what it was, the pork was fantastic - lean, flavorful with a bark as dark as a co-ed returning from Spring Break. (Just checking to see if you are still with me.)

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):
Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 7.6
Burnt Ends... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 7.6
Sausage Taste: 5 Tenderness: 4 Appearance: 5 = Overall: 4.6

I was turned off by the sauce (both spicy and regular).  It was translucent and homogenous which signaled, to me, a mere confluence of prepared fluids.  Bottles for sale at the counter list corn syrup, ketchup, vinegar, etc.  That just won't cut it in KC.

The thick, hand cut fries were firm and crisp.  Sweet potato fries were as good as to be expected for a member of the morning glory plant family.  Baked beans and potato salad also were no disappointment.  The tab for our 2 entrĂ©es was just over $20 before tax and tip.  Not bad.

I maintain a soft spot for Mom&Pops and I wish these folks the best.  I'm eager to hear from some of my other bbq aficionadoes about your impression of this rural option on the KC BBQ scene.