The Stack BBQ

note: this joint is the former Smokestack of Fiorella's Smokestack fame... it's a long story

Disappointment swept over me as I stood inside the door of The Stack at about 12:45pm on a Tuesday.  The dining room was no more than half full, but the one waitress was too busy to notice my sidekick and me.  We found a table and did what our waitress was supposed to do… waited.  After another party came in and got her attention, I tracked her down and pleaded for a little attention myself.  She was sincerely apologetic and quickly made up for the slight.  (She was the only gal handling about 8 tables.)

perfection in a basket...
The Stack's ribs can be found at the TOP of the stack!

Today’s special was ribs with fries, beans, and a drink (and pickles and toast) for $9.99.  Ribs are usually a little pricier than a lunch sammich special, but this seemed like a reasonable offer.  When our order arrived I was perfectly aghast to see SEVEN meaty bones staring back at me.  That’s half a slab in most counties!

I’m telling you, I’m trying to hold down the hyperbole, but these porksicles BLEW ME AWAY.  The rub was exquisite and the smoke was ethereal.  I’ve described meat tenderness many ways, but tenderness of these ribs was so endearing a harlequin romance writer would blush.  After a bone and a half, I told my running mate that these were going on the Q’uest for the Best list.  So let it be.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

I asked for a wee sample of burnt ends.  They were nice, but not barky or smoky.  Turns out you sorta have to request the burnt end of the burnt end to get the burnt end.  Anyway, the taste and tenderness assured me that if I’d gotten the business end of the burnt end, I’d been glad I had.

New ownership at The Stack BBQ is a few divorce courts removed from the majestic Fiorella name and bloodline, but they pale in no wise to their high-falutin kin.  Get yourself down to whatever part of Kansas City’s backside this area is called and get yourself a plateful of these Ribs of Renown.

This is destination barbeque.

I’m awarding a rare FIVE piggies.

site: http://thestackbbq.net/ 

Char House Barbeque

The main dining room and kitchen area are in the "lower level" of the building, but it is open, bright, and cheery.  No Wayne or Garth were harmed in the making of this restaurant.  There is a second room with a full wall of exterior windows.  (This room would be great for large groups.)  The whole place has a nice energy to it.

I stopped by for lunch and ordered a brisket+sausage sandwich w/ a side of... wait for it... jambalaya.  The sandwich was generously portioned.  The brisket had a beautiful smoke ring and was tender to the bite.  The sausage surprised me - sweet Italian.  I think it is a grave mistake to serve Italian sausage in a BBQ joint.  Plus, the sausage was not sliced, just stuffed on top of the brisket.

I liberated the sausage link and dosed my sammich with spicy sauce.  Loved it.  I also tasted the regular sauce.  It was sweet and straightforward bbq sauce.  (The meal - two meat sandwich with side and bottomless drink - totalled $8.15.  A great value in my book, but prices have changed since my visit.)

I tried the jambalaya just to see what a bbq joint would do with it.  It tasted like the kind of jambalaya you’d expect from white people running a barbeque joint.  It was a dumb idea.  Char House also specializes in pan-fried chicken.  This kind of cross-platforming makes me uncomfortable.  The best ‘Q I’ve ever had came from joints where ‘Q is all they do do do.

Paul, the dandy young man who opened Char House, stopped by and I chatted him up a bit.  We agreed that smoke is what distinguishes good Q.  Char House has what a successful restaurant needs - an onsite owner who is passionate about his product.  I visited Char House soon after it opened.  I need to get back up there and see how they are maturing.  Best wishes.

Alas, truth in reviewing allows compels me to give Char House only TWO piggies.

site: http://www.charhousebarbequeandfriedchicken.com/

Boss Hawg's Barbeque

note: this joint is in Topeka KS

Happy Family took a field trip to Topeka and on the recommendation of a friend we made our dinner stop at Boss Hawg's.  We were not disappointed.  I'm not much on what passes for a desirable attraction in Topeka, but I was very pleased with Boss Hawg's.  It is just worn enough and just crowded enough to feel like we were in a real serious bbq joint (maybe more reminiscent of Texas than Kansas City).

not from the Boss,
but a pretty slab, nonetheless

Feeding three carnivores and one carnivette, we ordered the "Beast Feast" consisting of a full rack of St Louis cut spareribs, a whole chicken, and about a quarter pound each of pulled pork, burnt ends, and sausage.  Sides consisted of steak fries, mashed potatoes, baked beans, coleslaw, and cornbread with honey butter.  Yes, there were enough leftovers to bring home – we're carnivores not gluttons! 

I'll start with the fails and work my way to the wins.  Pulled pork: the pork had enough smoke, but it was more chopped that pulled and it was not fresh and had dried out.  Sausage: this was generic, store-bought, Ekrich-style sausage that was fat and bland - real bbq demands much better sausage, preferably private label or custom-made.  Burnt Ends: wonderfully smoked, but not fresh - a little dried out.  Chicken: you really don't bbq a chicken as much as grill it in a smokey environment - this bird was very tasty, but virtually no smoke essence, but excellently seasoned.  Ribs: "pink to the bone!" which means slabs spent a long time low and slow in the smoker, tender to the bite and not overcooked so as to fall off the bone. 

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 9

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.6

Pulled Pork… Taste: 8 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 8

Sausage… Taste: 7 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 8

Chicken… Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

Steak fries were outstanding.  Baked (navy) beans were heavily sauced with lots of onions, but no chopped, smoked meat thrown in for richer flavor.  Big miss.

When I go back, and I will, ribs are the only thing I'll order - and the steak fries.  Since the meats were so inconsistent, I'm not going to rave about the ribs alone, but this is a nice restaurant with a good vibe.  Well worth another visit.

I’d love to give the Boss 3.5 piggies, but we only do whole hogs here and we round down instead of giving joints points they didn’t earn.  That said, here’s THREE for the Boss.

site: http://www.bosshawgsbbq.com

Oden's Family BBQ and Steakhouse

Out on the southeast corner of the KC BBQ debris field sits a little outpost the locals call Oden's Family BBQ and Steakhouse.  The restaurant has a rural diner feel with plenty of lovely locals working the tables.  Pardon the irony, but I find the (cigarette)smoker-friendly accommodations terribly disappointing - especially since the smoking section is merely "that side of the room" with second-hand choke freely wafting throughout the whole dining hall.  And if you ever wondered what happened to those fruit-themed, stained glass lampshades Ruby Tuesday had before it got all Pier One on us... Oden's solves the mystery.

For a family joint, Oden's is ambitious.  There is a full selection of burgers, sandwiches, and steakhouse entrées plus the BBQ options.  Prices seemed reasonable - a KC Strip (size not stated) was $18.99.  Sandwiches run in the $7-9 range.  BBQ meals were right in line with metro area competition.

Gorgeous and I beat the Wednesday night holiday rush by ten minutes. By the time we left at 7pm, 20 people were waiting to be seated. Mrs. Honey-Your-BBQ-Is-Better-But-It's-Nice-Not-To-Do-Dishes and I ordered big. We shared the Wed special of slab o'St Louis Ribs w/ two sides ($14.99) and an entrée of Burnt Ends (also w/ 2 sides $11.99). The ribs were PERFECT - tender, smoky, lean. PERFECT. The burnt ends were old school, stewed-in-the-pot not just cube-cut brisket. Some pieces were a tad tough, but the taste was wonderful. We saved half our bbq for the ravenous chil'ren back at the ranch and treated ourselves to a heaping mug-full of cherry cobbler. Spectacular. Oh, and KC fry cooks pay attention, if you want to learn how to cook perfect fries, get yourself an internship at Oden's. Best in KC!

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 7 = Overall: 7.8

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Two big entrées, sodas, cobbler +tax +tip totaled $42 and change.  As stated, we brought home another meal and a half, to boot.

Oden’s good work earns FOUR piggies.

site: no company website / UrbanSpoon.com listing

Pork N Pit BBQ

Out on the far east corner of the KC BBQ debris field sits a humble little concrete block building dishing out some very, very good Q.   PNP's small interior is white, bright, and clean.  In late January, festive Valentine decorations anticipated lovers - barbeque and otherwise.  A lousy boombox on the kitchen side of the wall bathes seven tables with fuzzy 90s FM rock.  PNP is Ma & Pa behind the counter.

PNP lines up the usual Q suspects: ribs, pulled pork, burnt ends, brisket, ham, turkey, chicken wings, beef sausage, as well as fried catfish.  Sides are beans, slaw, potato salad and hand cut curly fries.

Stopped by for a Monday lunch.  I ordered a brisket + sausage sandwich with fries and soda.  Pa brought out the fries first.  I thought I was at the carnival midway when I saw the size of this "side".  Idaho's greatest tuber was staring me in the face.  Moments later, a large hoagie bun stuffed with brisket and floating large red sausage chunks on top arrived at my table.  Pa admitted the sausage was from Sysco.  It was fine ground and a tad spongy, but quite tasty.  The brisket looked chopped, but no, it was sliced and so dadgum tender it crumbled when the sandwich was made up.  Excellent smoke and taste.  I used the hot sauce exclusively and enjoyed every thrilling bite.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4

Sausage… Taste: 7 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

This large combo sandwich is my standard lunch order and I never see it for under $10 (usually because fries are extra).  This was no special either, just the standard menu price, with tax, totaling $8.88.  $8.88!! I dare another BBQ joint to beat that.  (Really, please try.)  Use better better sasauge and PNP earns that last proud piggie.

As it stands, Pork N Pit BBQ gets FOUR well-deserved piggies.

  

site: no company website, here’s the UrbanSpoon reviews

Suzie Q's Smokehouse

a beautiful sampler
...definitely not from Suzie Q's

When I told Suzie Q that I wrote barbeque restaurant reviews, the look on her face summed up our total experience there – deflated.  Open for about four months when I visited, I can forgive some breaking-in shortcomings, but on the whole, this was a deflating experience.

Suzie makes her home in a reclaimed restaurant that can best be described as Gladstone Medieval.  I assume Sue made no effort at all to spruce up the joint when they moved in.  The place looks fatigued and run down.  But I came for the food, didn’t I?

Mrs. That-Smoke-Smells-Nice-On-You and I ordered Suzie Q’s Sampler ($24.95).  I spied this meat mountain on another patron’s table and was impressed with the heft and diversity.  This Library of Smokegress compiled Spare Ribs, Burnt Ends, Sausage*, Pulled Pork, Chicken Wings, Brisket, and Ham.  I’ll score the meats individually next, but on the whole, my notes indicate that the Suzie's Q was tender and tasty, but generally lack the true essence of great barbeque – smoke, as well as rub.  (When I say “tasty”, I mean the meat had the typical taste of its category, but it lacked the rub and smoke flavor that one goes to a barbeque joint for in the first place.)  The portion sizes we generous – I’d say that this meal could easily feed three “normal” people.  Good luck finding three.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 6 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 7 = Overall: 7.4

Burnt Ends... Taste: 7 Tenderness: 6 Appearance: 7 = Overall: 6.6

Ribs... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 6 Appearance: 7 = Overall: 8

Pulled Pork… Taste: 8 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

Sausage… Taste: 6 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 6.4

            Chicken… Taste: 7 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 7.6
            Ham… Taste: 6 Tenderness: 6 Appearance: 6 = Overall: 6

* There were actually three kinds of sausage – Italian, Polish, and spicy Polish.  All of which had the quality that you would find in the wiener section of Aldi.

We had a very nice conversation with Suzie Q after our meal.  I pointed out the lack of rib rub on any of the meat.  She said, “We use a little salt and pepper.  I’d like to use more, but mostly we’ve found that our patrons don’t care for much spice.”  My observation is that of the hundred plus bbq joints in KC, even the worst use a discernible rub.  If patrons don’t like Suzie’s, I’d suspect that the rub was repugnant.  Don’t blame the patron if your food is poor.

This restaurant represents a passion shared by both Suzie and her husband.  At this point, they have a ton of work left between them and even good barbeque.  I sincerely wish them the very best.

Suzie Q no better that TWO piggies.

site: http://www.suzieqssmokehousekc.com/

Iron Horse BBQ

note: this joint is in Atchison KS

not from Iron Horse, but consider this a visual bookmark
until you can get yourself up to Atchison

On the far northern fringe of the Kansas City barbeque debris field rests the sleepy burg of Atchison – famous for what leaves from there, trains and pilots.  One native son who didn’t get lost is Tony Kasl, proprietor of Iron Horse BBQ.  Even with my GPS a’blazin, I rolled past this joint twice so pay attention and don’t look for anything fancy… on the outside.

Inside is a quaint, old town store.  It probably housed a dress shop or a hardware store, maybe a rarely visited pilot's map store back when the river town was robust.  These days, Iron Horse BBQ may be the only reason to get outdoors in Atchison – and certainly the best.  Bride-for-Life and I devised a clever assault on a meat-rich menu.  We split a "¼ slab" o’porksicles and a twofer plate of brisket and pulled pork.  The KC style spare-ribs were very lightly rubbed and as rich burgundy as my cordovan kiltie tassel loafers.  Absolutely gorgeous.  All the ribs were tenderly perfectly done, "toothsome" let's say - not falling off the bone, but relenting with the slightest tug.

The brisket was competition perfect – nice smoke ring, good bark brown bark and as tender as… well, as tender as the distant glow of grandma’s porch light. 

Iron Horse doesn’t feature burnt ends, so I opted for the pulled pork.  I’m not a big fan of shredded pig flank because most joints don’t do it right.  Wifey usually orders the pulled pork and I get disgusted just looking at the hacked brown mess.  Iron Horse BBQ is re-writing the script.  This mound of pink protein was moist, laced with a rich smoke ring, showing a rich dark bark, and most of all – it actually was PULLED pork.  Large and small chunks rasslin' around in moisty self-love.  I need a synonym for perfect.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Pulled Pork… Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

The sides were generic, but as good as anybody’s.  If you go to a BBQ joint for the sides, you’ve missed the whole golldurn point.  Among three sauce options, the Sweet and Smoky was near-legendary.

Two BBQ dinners with two sides each, two sodas, tax, and generous tip to a wonderful gal who’ll be studying Baking Science at KSU in a couple years tallied out to just under $32.  The portions were so generous we brought close to half back to the house with us.  A definite value on top of being the sheer essence of 'Q.

I’m stingy with my “five proud little piggies” acclamation, but Iron Horse definitely earns all dap they get.  If you can find any reason at all to get north of the ‘burbs, maybe allege a visit to Nell Hill's, this is truly a barbeque destination I most highly recommend.

site: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Iron-Horse-BBQ/127931434605

Fiorella's Jack Stack Barbecue

food porn a la Jack

Jack Stack is great - perhaps the most reliably top-notch joint in town. The food is wonderful, and except at the Plaza location, service is what it should be.  HOWEVER, somewhere along the line, Jack decided to go "upscale" - a BBQ restaurant with white table cloths???  What's the point?  Jack and his Stack have sacrificed atmosphere for a little… no, a LOT of suburban snobbery.

Nonetheless, Jack Stack has to be near the top of anyone's must-eat-at BBQ joints. I recommend the Martin City location on 135th Street just east of State Line.  I’ve put this location high on the short list for out of town guests.  With that in mind, I’ll add them to my Q’uest for the Best list.

I’m going to hold décor against a joint

that serves up consistently great foor.  

Here’s FIVE for Fiorella's.

site: http://www.jackstackbbq.com

WilJenny's Tables & Tap

Elgin sausage - heaven by the link!

This homage to Texas Hill Country cuisine always serves reliably great food. When you walk in the front doors, you’d think you landed in the ‘Que Quadrangle.  The owner has toured Texas extensively and tried to evoke a Texican Roadhouse / Smokehouse right here in Johnson County.  Cousins in Luling and Lockhart won't recognize the elephant ear fans, but the Elgin sausage will take 'em straight home. In spite of the homage to the Lone Star State, the barbeque selections are pretty slight.  Brisket, Dr Pepper Baby Backs, Elgin sausage, turkey, and pulled pork comprise the list of 'Q.  The rest of the menu is excellent, JoCo froo-froo fare.  I just wish the owner had committed to a more thorough (and pure) barbeque line-up.

The Ranch House beans may be the only *pinto* beans served in a BBQ joint north of the Red River (and they're cooked in beer, to boot!). And as a man who has eaten well more than his share of chicken fried steaks, I can safely say I’ve never had better.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

Sausage… Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

As far a barbeque joint, I can only give WilJenny’s THREE piggies.

 site: http://www.wiljennys.com/

The BBQ Shack

note: this joint is in Paola KS

The Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives TV show is a sword that cuts sharply in both directions.  As I noted in my Smokin’ Guns review, business spiked as much as 250% after a Triple D visit - a great reward for joint that’s earned it.  I visited The BBQ Shack in Paola soon after Guy Fieri had blown through town.  The place was packed… so packed, we couldn’t get a dang “Howdy-Do” from a waitress, but we did hear them telling disheartened guests that they were out of burnt ends.  We walked away.

Visiting The BBQ Shack again a couple years after the bloom was off the rose, at least we got a table and some service from a waiterette.  Formerly in a literal “shack”, TBS is now in an honest-to-gosh strip shopping center.  The vibe… you describe it for me: the walls are covered with Andy Griffith show and Three Stooges posters with an occasional splat of over-sized Asleep At The Wheel cover art.  Screams “you’ll love our barbeque” to me.

The food.  Mrs. Hurry-Up-We’re-Only-Here-For-A-Rasslin-Meet and I ordered a burnt end dinner and a 2-meat brisket and sausage dinner, both with two sides.  The sausage was the LAST THING I ever want to see at a bbq joint – softymushyspongy Ekrich beef link sausage.  The burnt ends were dark, marble-sized pieces with tons of bark and smoke ring.  However, being so small, some were fairly chewy. 

not from The Shack, just a brisket beauty shot

The brisket… OMG… the brisket.  THE BRISKET!!  It was competition quality from eye to tongue!  Beautiful walnut-colored THICK CUT beef with at least an 1/8” smoke ring and a beautiful, look-who’s-been-sleeping-in-the-smoke-pit bark.  It was pull-apart tender and grandma could’ve eaten it without her Poligrip.  If either the burnt ends or the sausage were up to expectations, this joint would be straining at the boundary between four and five piggies.  But they weren’t up to expectations, were they?

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 8.2

Sausage… Taste: 6 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 7 = Overall: 7

Sides… thank the good Lord for inventing okra… and a fry kettle to perfect it.  Wifey had cornytots that made her smile.  The fries… the fries were a greasy limp mess – I thought someone had strangled some sea kelp and smeared it with 10w40.  This is an abject restaurant fail.

With the drinks, tax, & tip coming in right at the $30 mark, I consider this a fair deal for dinner.  The brisket was sensational.  Everything else drags the rating down.  Go for the brisket!

For the sake of the brisket alone,

I’m giving TBS three begrudging piggies.

site: http://www.thebbqshack.com/

Brobeck's Barbeque

There's an allegation that Brobeck’s was "Voted Best Ribs in 2010".  I'm trying to find out where that vote was cast and by whom.  I'm trying to find out because I want to add my vote on top of the stack!  If you have never had the perfect porksicle, 100% pink clear to the bone, you need to get yourself to Bro. Brobeck’s the absolute first chance you get.  Not only is the smoke "ring" the thing dreams are made of, the rub is text book.  Students of the Holy Q should make a profession of observing the consistency of the meat - firm, yet as tender as imaginable and readily pulls off the bone.  Yes, these ARE the best ribs to be found in Kansas City.  So help me Bartle.

(If you’re a competition purist, I should point out my conviction that Brobeck brines his slabs – thus the consistent pink color throughout.  For me this is a plus, but KCBS rules do not permit brining.)

if you don't have a lot of time to spend,
here's a good, quick way to
lose your Man Card
(not from Brobeck's)

Brobeck’s pays his rent in an ignominious strip center in a sleepy whorl of Johnson County.  The joint has a real country diner feel accented by the lovely ladies tending tables with smiles, shoulder touches, and lots of "honeys". A sampler plate of three ribs, sliced brisket, and sausage ($11.99) shows off Brobeck’s compentency.  The brisket had a nice ring, but could have used more bark and was just the least little bit dry.  Smoked sausage (Mendolia's polish) was wonderful - nicely flavored on it's own, enhanced perfectly by the smoke.  Homemade chips are a nice alternative to steak fries (which are excellent, themselves).  House red sauce is B+ and I strongly caution all humans against eating any "bbq sauce" that is yellow.  Brobeck is man enough to offer diners additional sauces, one from Curly's and another one from an alleged masterpiece.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Sausage… Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4

I wouldn't say Brobeck’s is overlooked, but considering the magnificence of his ribs, he deserves a whole lot of lovin' for what he does in the smoke oven.  Bro’ gets FOUR piggies.

site: http://www.brobecksbbq.com/

Oklamoma Joe's (47th Ave)

I walked through OK Joe's open doors with an open heart and open mind.  So many disciples have sung the praises of this smoke mecca, I wanted to hear the message of the Joseph's Witness with my own apostate ears.  Previously granting OKJ's Olathe location nothing but 2 stingy stars, I made my haj to the mothership.  I was willing to be baptized in the sauce and take the Texas toast & smoked meat sacraments.

Today's scripture reading was ribs and brisket.  The brisket was as tender and juicy as humanly conceivable.  It sported a nice Presbyterian smoke ring - present and accounted for, but nothing ostentatious.  The beef taste was so robust, I wonder if it had been re-warmed by a quick dip in beef broth.  However, a smoky bark illustrated the sad tale of the prodigal son in today's homily - I looked for it, but it was nowhere to be found.

Fortunately this was an ecumenical gathering and the lean pork spare ribs showed up to dance and shout - holy rollers of rub, smoke, tenderness... I still hear angels singing as I write.  Perfectly smoked, pink meat ran clear to the bone - they're the red letter edition of KC 'Q.  These porksicles are exactly equal to the best in the whole blessed town, I do declare.  The preacher's kid, closely-scrutinized sauce, showed off with specks of herbs and spices; conspicuously absent in his twin sibling down on Strangline.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Am I converted?  Am I a true believer?  Have I found the path to the altar of all things Q'ed?  I'll grant so much as I might attend frequently and throw my money in the plate.  As good as I confess OKJ to be, I still am in search of a smoke-shrouded holy grail, Nirvana enthroned in a hickory haze.  But, fear not!  Pilgrims of the pink pellicle won't lose their way with regular attendance at this chapel of the char.

Although it pains me to give any joint with "Oklahoma" in its name
anything more than a black eye, I will graciously anoint OKJ with FOUR piggies.

site: http://www.oklahomajoesbbq.com/ 

Smokehouse Bar-B-Que

Smokehouse BBQ is neither a late-comer or late-bloomer on the KC BBQ restaurant scene. They definitely get less press than luminaries such as JackStack, but they don't lack for fans.

Why such a brief review?  EVERYTHING at Smokehouse is as it should be. Briskets soak in the smoke for 20 hours. You won't find a better tasting piece of meat. Burnt Ends are darky and barky.  Their sausage is coarse and meaty, bursting with hearty flavor. Ribs are perfect every time. I'm mourning the loss of fried okra as a side, but otherwise, there's nothing missing in this great restaurant.

In the last decade, new joints in Zona Rosa and Overland Park have extended the reach of KC's best kept BBQ secret. I'm a non-competition BBQ expert. When I'm ready for someone else to serve me BBQ, I go to Smokehouse.

site: http://www.smokehousebbq.com/

All Slabbed Up

note: this joint is in Lansing / Leavenworth KS

In spite of the fact that the menu is printed in Comic Sans, ASU wants to be a biker bar.  Signs out front touted something like "Motorhead Mondays - Free Beer"**.  Something like that.  Inside, the joint is clean and freshly redecorated in some weird cross between Chipotle and Texas Roadhouse.  Vanity license plates like IGO4IT and GETUONE quilt the wall.  The L-shaped dining area is crowded, real crowded, with 4 high top tables and 4 regular tables.  I can only imagine how "festive" this place gets when over-sized, over-served Harley Homeys and Honeys get likkered up on Free Beer night**.

these burnt ends are sure perty,
but they're not necessarily from ASU

Anyway, I came for the 'Q.  Hoping for a little Eastwood swagger, I ordered The High Plains Drifter (3 ribs and my choice of 2nd meat - burnt ends in this case, plus 1 side and Texas (YeeHaw) toast - $11.99).  My motorcycle momma to order the Pure Country (2 meats - brisket and pulled pork in this case) plus 1 side and Texas (YeeHaw) toast - $9.99). 

The burnt ends were the stuff legends are made of.  Well smoked and tender as a mother's love.  Magnificente! as we say in the Land of Los Alamo.  The ribs were delicious.  One rib, an end piece, was a little chewy, but I actually like that.  The others were spot on.  The little lady allowed me a nibble of brisket and pork.  Well done.  I wouldn't mind a tad more smoke, but no quarrels. 

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4

Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 8 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 8.6

Pulled Pork… Taste: 7 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8

I started with the hot bbq sauce and never reached for anything less.  It was a little thinner than I would prefer, but once in my cavernous mouth it took care of business.  Outstanding.  My wife ordered the sweet potato fries.  Crisp, but she didn't feel like there was such a pronounced yammy taste.  I ordered the standard pomme frites.  Come on people, if everyone from MickeyDs to Red Robin can nail crisp fries, don't you think you could too?  A hard F- for the fries, everything else was a winner.

The only thing I can get my head around is the photo of a horse's rear end hanging over the men's urinal.  Really, is that an homage to somebody's ex-wife or a more subliminal message which is totally lost on me.  Anyway, I'd opt for an illustration from Saturday Evening Post or something else as innocuous.

Based on All Slabbed Up’s consistent quality and great value, not only am I giving them FIVE piggies, I’m including them in KC’Q Best All-Around Barbeque Joint.  No small feat.

site: http://www.allslabbedupbbq.com

**I have absolutely no idea what the sign actually said and I make no offer of free beer on Monday or any other day.  You're on your own.

Bigg's Barbecue

Note: this joint is in Lawrence KS

Bigg's has caused me to add a new category to my “KC’Quest for the Best” list – Best All-Around Barbeque Joint.  It’s a lofty appellation, but I’ll stand by Bigg's’ nomination to this Hall of Smoke.

Bigg's’ by-line is “Sports, Ribs, and Rock ‘n Roll”.  With 23 big flat TVs scattered around the joint and rock-down-memory-lane memorabilia covering the face of every wall, I’d say they are living up to their aspirations.  Oh, and the ‘Q?  It’s the “Hey Jude” of all things smoked.

yeah, that's fried okra - triple bonus points!!

My bride of exactly 29 years and I ordered up a Rib Combo Special (3 baby back bones and brisket - $9.99) and a Combination plate (Brisket, Burnt Ends, 3 St Louis bones - $13.99) both with two sides.  For under $30 we were swimming in more food than we could handle.  Even writing this review I’m shaking my head at what great value this joint offers.

I’ll grade out the meats in a moment, but I have to discuss the brisket / burnt end situ.  Please read my discussion of burnt ends.  Bigg's employs that technique perfectly!  In my notes next to burnt ends, I wrote “Master Class!”  Folks, there just may not be better smoked meat in all the land.  The smoke ring was deep, the bark thick, and the chunks fairly sparkled with zesty rub.  On the other hand… the brisket had only a very thin smoke ring and not much bark.  It was firm, tender, and tasty, but it lacked the smoker’s dark arts.  If the brisket had been better, I’d be calling this the absolute only place to get barbeque in a four state area.  It was that good!

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4
Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9
  (KCBS standards do not allow 10s. But I think Biggs burnt ends deserve double digits.)
Ribs... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 9

For the record, my notes for the ribs were “text book perfect”, “generously trimmed St Louis”, “wonderful pork taste”, “baby backs very meaty”.  I would have liked more of the burnt end rub on the ribs, but I’m not quibbling.  Bigg's also has a nice set of sauces – Reg, Hot, Sweet – all noteworthy.

Bigg's lives up to its sports bar tag with a menu that boasts an extensive list of appies and sammies.  But I gotta ask ya, with ‘Q this good why are you eatin’ chicken wings?

I’m going to forgive the B+ brisket for the moment
and hang FIVE piggies on Bigg's. 
This is destination barbeque!

site: http://www.biggsribs.com/

Jon Russell’s BBQ

To kick off my newly optimized review site let’s review Kansas City’s brandest-new joint – Jon Russell’s BBQ, a self-described “hand-crafted micro smokehouse”.  That description just cracks me up.

However, I’ll be darned if JRBBQ doesn’t come pretty close to their highfalutin appellation.  JRBBQ has moved into a former Quizno’s sammich shop so the place is small and short on décor.  This is a great place for lunch or for dinner on the run.  I would not suggest this joint for a leisurely dining experience.

The menu is sparse as well – 6 sammiches (including a “Poor Russell” plagiarizing JackStack) all at $6.99, a combo plate for $13.99, and some rib options averaging about $2 a bone.  JRBBQ also seems to feature a “sauce of the day” which on my visit was a playful Cherry Chipotle.

My hirsute lunch-mate and I ordered a Super B (brisket on a hoagie bun), a Poor Russell (chopped burnt end and sausage on hoagie), and a kids meal of burnt ends (just to sample the smoky stuff). Total tab came to $27.13.

The brisket was moist and tender.  Something in the brisket rub struck me as “unique” – not bad, but non-traditional.  Could have been a baking spice like clove or cinnamon.  The burnt ends were very nicely (heavily!) smoked, though not showing off with any particular rub.  The ends were from the point and neither as moist nor as tender as I prefer. The chopped brisket and sausage was tasty as expected.

My professional assessment (based on my scoring standards):

Brisket... Taste: 8 Tenderness: 9 Appearance: 8 = Overall: 8.4

Burnt Ends... Taste: 9 Tenderness: 7 Appearance: 9 = Overall: 8.2

Considering my overall experience, I give JRBBQ four piggies.

To JRBBQ I say welcome to the neighborhood, job well done, and I’ll see you soon.

site: http://www.jonrussellsbbq.com/

Roscoe's Barbeque

Roscoe's BBQ is the reason I write restaurant reviews.  This is within the margin of error of THE BEST barbeque to be found in the Ground Zero of All Barbeque.

Facility / Vibe

Roscoe's makes its home in an older building on a virtually barren stretch of county road in southern 'Dot Co.  The facility is sparse, but clean.  The focus is on the food.  Every visit to Roscoe's we've found most of the immediate family workin' their tails off.  This is a family affair.

Menu

Roscoe's keeps his menu lean and clean - brisket, pork, burnt ends, ham, turkey, and ribs.  Those regal components make up sandwiches and/or dinners with a half dozen sides to round things out.  Sandwiches are $6.5 and $7 - and fair warning, the $7 full bun is a MONSTER.  Dinners are $10.50 w/ two sides.  Slabs are $15 ($13 on Rib Tuesdays).

Personal Experience

On our first visit, Mrs. You-Bring-Me-To-The-Best-Places and I ordered a brisket and burnt ends combo dinner and a 1/2 slab o'ribs. Sides of beans and fries were generous. The ribs were as perfect as perfect can get - members in good standing of the First Church of Fall-Off-The-Bone where they sit in the front pew. Big, blackened chunks o'brisket delivered the Burnt End homily. Tender, savory slices of brisket backed up with "Amens" from the choir. The rib rub ushered the taste buds to their regular seat. Gorgeous kept moaning about the beans (I hope) and the fries were krinkly perfection. Sauce is good. Word is the locals know to ask for the hard stuff Roscoe keeps under the counter. ASK! The hot bbq sauce is sparkling with cayenne.

KCQ Score:
   Ribs: 9
   Brisket: 9
   Burnt Ends: 9

Service

Order at the counter and those handsome young'uns will bring it right out to you.  Sodas are self-serve.

Value / Comparison

I'm trying to restrain my tendency toward hyperbole because I want you to believe the greatness of the joint is NO exaggeration.  $24 for half slab, combo dinner, two generous sides, and two sodas... that's a good deal.  The fact that this is top-tier BBQ in the BBQ mecca makes that $24 look like a give-away.  Tuesday Rib Nights land you a full slab for $13.  Unbeatable. period.  Just be sure to call ahead a couple hours or so and reserve your slab(s).  We've seen 'em sell out early.

Roscoe's also earns a place in the rarefied air of KC'Q's Best All-Around Barbeque Joints. 

 

Roscoe's earns FIVE well-deserved piggies.

site: http://www.roscoeskcbbq.com/